Sprat Sandwich

The Baltic sprat has been salted and spiced on this coast for centuries, and kiluvõileib - sprat on buttered bread - is the closest thing Estonia has to a universal snack. It turns up at receptions, on pub menus, at Christmas, and on the table whenever someone opens a tin.

What it actually is

Small silver fish cured in salt with a spice mix that usually includes allspice, black pepper, coriander and bay. They are dark, soft and intensely savoury rather than fishy in a fresh way.

The standard assembly is a slice of black rye bread, a thick layer of butter, one or two sprats laid on top, and a slice of hard-boiled egg. Variations add spring onion, cucumber, or a little sour cream. The point is the contrast between the sour bread, the fat and the salt.

Where to try it

• Any supermarket - tins of spiced sprats are everywhere and cheap; brands from the coast are the ones locals reach for.
• Market halls - Balti Jaam and the Tartu hall sell them loose from the counter, which is better than tinned.
• Pubs and older restaurants - almost always on the starters list.

Honest expectations

It is very salty and quite oily, which surprises people expecting something like an anchovy on toast. One or two is a snack; a plateful is a lot.

Tinned sprats travel fine but check airline rules on liquids if the tin is in oil and you are carrying it in hand luggage.

Nearby

The Balti Jaam market in Tallinn is the easiest place to buy them loose, with the black bread and butter to go with them.